Flying into Nagasaki means you really get to see how the city is surrounded by curtains of mountains on all sides but it’s about 30-40 minutes into the city itself by public transport. The bullet train option drops you right outside Nagasaki station. As my start point was Tokyo and I had limited time, I took the plane option. When you do get to the main train station, it’s a short uphill (plenty of medieval style, uneven steps) walk to the side of the hill called ‘Nishizaka’ Hill where the 26 Martyrs were executed in 1597. While a taxi would undoubtedly take the paved road, I wanted to walk but midway had to look around to spot the museum (see above image).
The 26 Martyrs Museum is more than just a historical site. It’s a meaningful stop on your pilgrimage to Nagasaki and presents the history of Christianity in Japan with a particular focus on the 26 Martyrs and the years of ‘Hidden Christians’ in the Nagasaki prefecture at large. If you have time to watch the movie ‘Silence’ before making the visit- it would be a useful primer to help explain some of the exhibits such as the ‘fumie’- an image of Jesus or Mary were used as a tool of persecution. Stepping on it was considered an act of apostasy.
Entrance fee is a mere ¥500 and there’s a teeny-weeny gift shop selling simple religious goods. But first you have to find the entrance. Here’s a visual hint!
Both the adjacent church (St. Philip) and the museum itself date to 1962 and were designed by a Japanese/Catholic architect called Kenji Imai who in turn was influenced by Gaudi.
The other highlight on the site is a bronze monument depicting the 26 Martyrs- created by a Japanese/Catholic sculptor called Yasutake Funakoshi. The figures are life-sized and your eye is quickly drawn to the three young boys (aged 12-14) who were part of the group of 26. The sculptor imagined the Martyrs singing (mouths are open) with eyes to heaven and facing the nearby Oura Cathedral. Only St. Paul Miki and St. Peter Baptist have their hands open; preaching to the audience to the very end.
Laudate Dominum Omnes Gentes
See the official website: https://japan26martyrs.studio.site/top-English
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